sterile and
uninviting to the last degree. The town, however, from its cheerful
white appearance, contrasted with the dreary brownness of the back
ground, makes not an unpleasing coup d'oeil. It is neither irregular in
its plan, nor despicable in its style of building; and the churches and
religious houses are numerous, sumptuous, and highly ornamented.

The morning of our arrival, as many officers as could be spared from the
different ships were introduced to the Marquis de Brancifort, Governor
of the Canary Islands, whose reception was highly flattering and polite.
His Excellency is a Sicilian by birth, and is most deservedly popular in
his government. He prefers residing at Teneriffe, for the conveniency
of frequent communication with Europe, to the Grand Canary, which is
properly the seat of power; and though not long fixed here, has already
found means to establish a manufactory in cotton, silk, and thread,
under excellent regulations, which employs more than sixty persons, and
is of infinite service to the common people. During our short stay we
had every day some fresh proof of his Excellency's esteem and attention,
and had the honour of dining with him, in a style of equal elegance and
splendor. At this entertainment the profusion of ices which appeared in
the desert was surprising, considering that we were enjoying them under
a sun nearly vertical. But it seems the caverns of the Peak, very far
below its summit, afford, at all seasons, ice in abundance.

The restless importunity of the beggars, and the immodesty of the lowest
class of women, are highly disgusting. From the number of his countrymen
to be found, an Englishman is at no loss for society. In the mercantile
houses established here, it is from gentlemen of this description that
any information is derived, for the taciturnity of the Spaniards is not
to be overcome in a short acquaintance, especially by Englishmen, whose
reserve falls little short of their own. The inland country is described
as fertile, and highly romantic; and the environs of the small town of
Laguza mentioned as particularly pleasant. Some of our officers who made
an excursion to it confirmed the account amply.

It should seem that the power of the Church, which has been so long
on the decline in Europe, is at length beginning to be shaken in the
colonies of the Catholic powers: some recent instances which have taken
place at Teneriffe, evince it very fully. Were not a stranger, ho