of a stream eating our lunch.
Before us appeared two tall and slender youths, wreathed in smiles,
engaging, and most attentive to the small niceties of courtesy. We
returned their greeting from our recumbent positions, whereupon they
made preparation to squat down beside us.

"Are you sultans?" we demanded sternly, "that you attempt to sit in Our
Presence," and we lazily kicked the nearest.

Not at all abashed, but favourably impressed with our transcendent
importance-as we intended-they leaned gracefully on their spears and
entered into conversation. After a few trifles of airy persiflage they
got down to business.

"This," said they, indicating the tiny flat, "is the most beautiful
place to camp in all the mountains."

We doubted it.

"Here is excellent water."

We agreed to that.

"And there is no more water for a journey."

"You are liars," we observed politely.

"And near is the village of our chief, who is a great warrior, and will
bring you many presents; the greatest man in these parts."

"Now you're getting to it," we observed in English; "you want trade."
Then in Swahili, "We shall march two hours longer."

After a few polite phrases they went away. We finished lunch, remounted,
and rode up the trail. At the edge of the canyon we came to a wide
clearing, at the farther side of which was evidently the village in
question. But the merry villagers, down to the last toro, were drawn up
at the edge of the track in a double line through which we rode. They
were very wealthy savages, and wore it all. Bright neck, arm, and leg
ornaments, yards and yards of cowry shells in strings, blue beads of
all sizes (blue beads were evidently "in"), odd scraps and shapes of
embroidered skins, clean shaves and a beautiful polish characterized
this holiday gathering. We made our royal progress between the
serried ranks. About eight or ten seconds after we had passed the last
villager-just the proper dramatic pause, you observe-the bushes parted
and a splendid, straight, springy young man came into view and stepped
smilingly across the space that separated us. And about eight or ten
seconds after his emergence-again just the right dramatic pause-the
bushes parted again to give entrance to four of the quaintest little
dolls of wives. These advanced all abreast, parted, and took up
positions two either side the smiling chief. This youth was evidently
in the height of fashion, his hair braided in a tight queue bound with