; also in mural painting, stained glass, incised
brasses, encaustic tiles, &c. Probably in most cases the pattern was
copied, so far as the general design is concerned, from the tissues and
stuffs of Byzantine manufacture, which came over to Europe and were
highly prized as ecclesiastical vestments.
[Illustration: A B C]
In its textile use, the term diaper was originally applied to silk
patterns of a geometrical pattern; it is now almost exclusively used
for diamond patterns made from linen or cotton yarns. An illustration
of two patterns of this nature is shown in the figure. The floats of
the warp and the weft are mostly in three; indeed the patterns are
made from a base weave which is composed entirely of floats of this
number. It will be seen that both designs are formed of what may be
termed concentric figures--alternately black and white. Pattern B
differs from pattern A only in that more of these concentric figures
are used for the complete figure. If pattern B, which shows only one
unit, were extended, the effect would be similar to A, except for the
size of the unit. In A there are four complete units, and hence the
pattern appears more striking. Again, the repeating of B would cause
the four corner pieces to join and to form a diamond similar to the
one in the centre. The two diamonds in B would then alternate
diagonally to left and right. Special names are given to certain kinds
of diapers, e.g. "bird's-eye," "pheasant's-eye"; these terms indicate,
to a certain extent, the size of the complete diamond in the
cloth--the smaller kind taking the name "bird's-eye." The size of the
pattern on paper has little connexion with the size of the pattern in
the cloth, for it is clearly the number of threads and picks per inch
which determine the size of the pattern in the cloth from any given
design. Although A is larger than what is usually termed the
"bird's-eye" pattern, it is evident that it may be made to appear as
such, provided that the cloth is fine enough. These designs, although
adapted mostly for cloths such as nursery-diapers, for pinafores, &c.,
are sometimes used in the production of towels and table-cloths. In
the figure, the first pick in A is identical with the first pick in B,
and the part C shows how each interweaves with the twenty-four
threads.
DIAPHORETICS (from Gr. [Greek: diaphorein], to carry through), the name
given to those
|