barter, while others eagerly board the steamer to make such
purchases as they require.

[Illustration: A NATIVE BOAT SAILING UPSTREAM WITH THE WIND. _Page
26_]

Almost every requisite of life may be bought in these floating
bazaars--clothing, cutlery, or hardware, lamps and looking-glasses
(which latter are always in great demand), preserved eggs from China,
English flour, Indian curries and sweetmeats, cooking utensils,
"ngapi" (or rotted fish) from Yandoon, are some of the articles
offered for sale, in return for which the villagers have to offer
supplies of oil, cutch, rice, native silks, and beautifully-made
baskets and lacquer-work.

At important stations the landing-places consist of barges moored
alongside the banks, and these are moved from time to time as the
varying levels of the river demand. More frequently, however, the bows
of the steamer are simply run into the bank, while its crew of
Chittagonians jump overboard to carry the mooring rope ashore. It is
amusing to watch the mass of struggling humanity who throng the
landing-places on the arrival of the steamer. Every one, whether
landing or embarking, strives to be first upon the narrow gangway
which connects the steamer's sponson[3] with the shore, with the
result that many are thrown into the water. Each is intent upon
conducting his business to the best possible advantage in the limited
time at his disposal, for the steamer's visit does not occur every
day, and its stay is short.

[Footnote 3: The small platform which connects the paddle-box with the
steamer's deck.]

Along the margin of the river are many who, indifferent to the arrival
of the mail, are engaged in washing their clothes or utensils, while
boys and girls gambol on the banks, or, swimming with delightful ease,
frolic round the steamer in the water.

Interesting though life in the steamer is, that of the river as seen
from its decks is even more so. The native boats are most quaint in
their designs, the most striking being the "laungzat." This is a
vessel often of very large size, and capable of carrying a large
amount of cargo. Its bows are sharply uptilted, the cut-water
frequently rising clear of the water. The hull is beautifully
modelled, and the stern, rising high above the water in a sort of
tower, is often elaborately carved. Half its length is covered by a
deck-house for the crew, on the roof of which a canopy of reeds or
grasses gives shelter to the steersman, who, rais