ge!" cried all together. "Why, hang it, our baggage is
scattered along the trail clear back to Reykjavik! It has been growing
less ever since we started. By the time we reach the Geysers it is
questionable if we'll have as much as a fine-tooth comb left!"

"Then," said I, "you can travel. Sell a dozen of your horses on the
way, and you'll be rid of another trouble!"

"Sell them; they wouldn't bring a farthing. They're not worth a
groat."

"Then turn them loose."

"That's a jolly idea," said the lively sportsman; "how the deuce are
we to travel without pack-horses?"

"Oh, nothing easier. You don't need pack-horses when you have no
packs."

"By Jove, there's something in that!" said the jolly gentleman. "Our
American friend ought to know. He's seen the elephant before."

This proposition gave rise to an animated discussion, during which I
wished them a prosperous tour, and took my leave. Of their subsequent
career I have heard nothing, save that they arrived safely in England,
and published various letters in the newspapers giving glowing
accounts of their Icelandic experience.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF ICELANDIC HUT.]

Nothing of importance occurred on the way back to Reykjavik. I
arrived there early in the afternoon safe and sound, and greatly
benefited by the trip. Like the beatings received by Brusa, the
experience was delightful when it was over. I paid off my excellent
guide Geir Zoega, and made him a present of the few articles that
remained from the expedition. It is a great pleasure to be able to
recommend a guide heartily and conscientiously. A worthier man than
Geir Zoega does not exist, and I hereby certify that he afforded me
entire satisfaction. No traveler who desires an honest, intelligent,
and conscientious guide can do better than secure his services. Long
life and happiness to you, Geir Zoega! May your shadow never be less;
and may your invaluable little dog Brusa live to profit by your wise
counsel and judicious administration of the rod.

CHAPTER LII.

A FRIGHTFUL ADVENTURE.

The _Arcturus_ had been delayed in discharging freight by a series of
storms which prevailed at the bay, and was now down at Haparanda Fjord
taking in ballast. The probability was that she would not leave for
several days. Meantime I was extremely anxious to see a little more of
domestic life in Iceland, and made several foot-expeditions to the
farm-houses in the neighborhood of Reykjavik.

At one of