that others might
have pleasure, as the story will tell. And the name of Esaias, the
Indian boy who accompanied us to the base camp, and then returned with
the superfluous dogs, must be mentioned, with commendation for fidelity
and thanks for service. Acknowledgment is also made to many friends and
colleagues at the mission stations in the interior, who knew of the
purpose and furthered it greatly and held their tongues so that no
premature screaming bruit of it got into the Alaskan newspapers: to the
Rev. C. E. Betticher, Jr., particularly and most warmly.

The author would add, perhaps quite unnecessarily, yet lest any should
mistake, a final personal note. He is no professed explorer or climber
or "scientist," but a missionary, and of these matters an amateur only.
The vivid recollection of a back bent down with burdens and lungs at the
limit of their function makes him hesitate to describe this enterprise
as recreation. It was the most laborious undertaking with which he was
ever connected; yet it was done for the pleasure of doing it, and the
pleasure far outweighed the pain. But he is concerned much more with men
than mountains, and would say, since "out of the fullness of the heart
the mouth speaketh," that his especial and growing concern, these ten
years past, is with the native people of Alaska, a gentle and kindly
race, now threatened with a wanton and senseless extermination, and
sadly in need of generous champions if that threat is to be averted.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. PREPARATION AND APPROACH 3

II. THE MULDROW GLACIER 25

III. THE NORTHEAST RIDGE 53

IV. THE GRAND BASIN 80

V. THE ULTIMATE HEIGHT 92

VI. THE RETURN 117

VII. THE HEIGHT OF DENALI, WITH A DISCUSSION OF THE
READINGS ON THE SUMMIT AND DURING THE ASCENT 141

VIII. EXPLORATIONS OF THE DENALI REGION AND PREVIOUS
ATTEMPTS AT ITS ASCENT 157

IX. THE NAMES PLACED UPON THE MOUNTAIN BY THE AUTHOR 180

ILLUSTRATIONS

Ice fall of nearly four thousand feet by which the
upper or Harper Glacier discharges into the lower
or Muldrow Gl