follows a bridle-path which, having crossed the Gola by a
suspension bridge, mounts the steep hill on the left bank. Skirting
this hill on its upward course, the road reaches the far side, which
slopes down to the Barakheri stream. A fairly steep ascent of 5 miles
through well-wooded country brings the traveller to Bhim Tal, a lake
4500 feet above the level of the sea. This lake, of which the area
is about 150 acres, is one of the largest of a series of lakes formed
by the flow of mountain streams into cup-like valleys. The path skirts
the lake and then ascends the Gagar range, which attains a height
of over 7000 feet. From the pass over this range a very fine view
is obtainable. To the north the snowy range stretches, and between
it and the pass lie 60 miles of mountain and valley. To the south
are to be seen Bhim Tal, Sat Tal, and other lakes, nestling in the
outer ranges, and, beyond the hills, the vast expanse of the plains.

The Gagar range is well wooded. The majority of the trees are
rhododendrons: these, when they put forth their blossoms in spring,
display a mass of crimson colouring. From the Gagar pass the road
descends for some 3 miles through forest to the valley of the Ramganga.
For about a mile the path follows the left bank of this small stream;
it then crosses it by a suspension bridge, and forthwith begins to
mount gradually the bare rocky Pathargarhi mountain. On the mountain
side, a few hundred feet above the Ramganga, is a village of three
score double-storeyed houses. These are very picturesque. Their
white walls are set off by dark brown woodwork. But alas they are
as whited sepulchres. It is only from a distance that they are
picturesque. They are typical abodes of the hill folk.

From the Pathargarhi pass the path makes a steep descent down a
well-wooded mountain-side to the Deodar stream. After crossing this
by a stone bridge, the path continues its switch-back course upwards
on a wooded hillside to the Laldana Binaik pass, whence it descends
gradually for 6 miles, through first rhododendron then pine forest
to the Sual river. This river is crossed by a suspension bridge. From
the Sual the path makes an ascent of 3 miles on a rocky hillside to
Almora, which is 36 miles from Kathgodam.

Almora used to be a Gurkha stronghold, and is now a charming little
hill station situated some 5300 feet above the sea-level.

The town and the civil and military station are built on a
saddle-backed ridge w