d we seemed to be passing happy people who'd come to play in
Scotland: nice golfing girls and men, and men with guns over their
shoulders, or followed by gillies with fishing-tackle. I wish men
could amuse themselves, though, don't you, without killing
creatures more beautiful and happy than themselves?

It was such a pretty road, past Methven, where, alas! the English
beat Bruce; and if I hadn't been grieved to find that by John
Knox's advice all the nicest buildings had been pulled down, I
shouldn't have felt disappointed in Perth. It is a very fine town
anyhow, with glorious trees; and the two great bridges over the Tay
are splendid if they _are_ made of iron. They look as if people had
planned them especially to give all the view there could be of the
sunset.

Of course the 'Fair Maid's' house was the most interesting thing.
I hope it really was hers. I don't see why not. It _is_ in the old
glover's quarter. And the shrine with the crucifix and death's head
and cross-bones they found hidden in the wall of her room is too
fascinating. I could just see her praying there, so beautiful that
all the young men of Perth were in love with her. And talking of
the young men of Perth, Basil says the ball in the Games Week is
supposed to be the best show of the year--such splendid men come. I
should love to see them in the kilt, with their brown knees, like
the pipers in Edinburgh.

St. Andrews was our next place, and we arrived the same day, for
we didn't stop in Perth after we had seen the sights there. I
wonder if you have been to St. Andrews? I know so little about you
yet, dearest. I fell in love with the place--not so much with the
links (though they must be the most beautiful as well as the most
famous in the world) as with that old ruined castle built on the
dark rocks rising out of the sea. I know I shall dream of the
awful, bottle-necked dungeon! Basil said it was the worst thing he
had ever seen except at Loches. I hope it isn't wicked to be
pleased that Cardinal Beaton, after he sat in his window to watch
Wishart burn, was soon killed, and salted, and preserved in the
same dungeon where he used to keep martyrs. The 'undergrads' of the
University looked so attractive in their red gowns, and the girl
students in their mortar boards! They w