csimile in black of Sir Colin Campbell; his
nose, mouth, and the numerous wrinkles on his face were identical with
those of the great General, but here all resemblance ceased. Two men
had preceded us to give information, and when I followed I saw that
his village was one of squalid misery, the only fine things about
being the lofty trees in which it lay. Chisumpi begged me to sleep at
a village about half a mile behind: his son was browbeating him on
some domestic affair, and the older man implored me to go. Next
morning he came early to that village, and arranged for our departure,
offering nothing, and apparently not wishing to see us at all. I
suspect that though paramount chief, he is weak-minded, and has lost
thereby all his influence, but in the people's eyes he is still a
great one.

Several of my men exhibiting symptoms of distress, I inquired for a
village in which we could rest Saturday and Sunday, and at a distance
from Chisumpi. A headman volunteered to lead us to one west of this.
In passing the sepulchral grove of Chisumpi our guide remarked,
"Chisumpi's forefathers sleep there." This was the first time I have
heard the word "sleep" applied to death in these parts. The trees in
these groves, and around many of the villages, are very large, and
show what the country would become if depopulated.

We crossed the Diampwe or Adiampwe, from five to fifteen yards wide,
and well supplied with water even now. It rises near the Ndomo
mountains, and flows northwards into the Lintipe and Lake. We found
Chitokola's village, called Paritala, a pleasant one on the east side
of the Adiampwe Valley. Many elephants and other animals feed in the
valley, and we saw the Bechuana Hopo[32] again after many years.

The Ambarre, otherwise Nyumbo plant, has a pea-shaped, or rather
papilionaceous flower, with a fine scent. It seems to grow quite wild;
its flowers are yellow.

Chaola is the poison used by the Maravi for their arrows, it is said
to cause mortification.

One of the wonders usually told of us in this upland region is that we
sleep without fire. The boys' blankets suffice for warmth during the
night, when the thermometer sinks to 64 deg.-60 deg., but no one else has
covering sufficient; some huts in process of building here show that a
thick coating of plaster is put on outside the roof before the grass
thatch is applied; not a chink is left for the admission of air.

Ohitikola was absent from Paritala when we arr