after the performance. The Empress presented
all the notable people to the Queen, and I stood near her in order to
present others if necessary.

BERLIN, _May, 1910_.

Dear L.,--Do not be surprised that you have not heard from me. We have
been motoring. A most delightful tour. One does not know the bliss of
traveling until one motors through Germany as we have just done. I
would send you my diary, but it reads too much like a ship's log. We
started from Berlin on the 1st of May and went as far as Eisenach. In
trying to climb the steep hill which leads to the halls where
Tannhauser sang his naughty description of Venusberg our motor broke
down, as if to commemorate the spot. We had to spend the night at
Eisenach for repairs. The next day we passed Gotha, where we lunched,
and passed the night at Fulda. The next day we went on to Weimar,
where Liszt's memory is as green as the trees in the grand-ducal park.

Everything is beautiful in this time of the year, and the days are
long. What could be more enchanting I leave to your imagination.

In Munich we galleried from morning to night, and were utterly
exhausted and hardly had the courage to dress for the opera; but,
having tickets, economy got the better of prudence, and we sat through
the long performance of "Don Giovanni" with _Geduld_.

Andrada, the Portuguese barytone, was very good and looked the part to
perfection. In real life I am told he is a Don Juan himself. If the
list of his victims has not yet reached _mille et un_ the fault cannot
be laid at his door. His stage victims were all fat German _Frauen_.
Zerlina wore a blond wig, showed very black eyebrows and red lips. Her
golden molars showed from afar. Our visit to the artist Lenbach and
his wife was followed by an invitation to tea the next day. Lenbach is
divorced from his first wife, married to a Countess Arnim (also
divorced). They have a dear little girl whom Lenbach has painted
several times. The studio is in a charming garden, arranged in the
most artistic manner, full of broken columns and antique relics
resembling the gardens on the Venice canals. Lenbach seen in the bosom
of his family is a different Lenbach from the one we knew in Rome and
Paris--half society man, half artist. Here he is simply _all papa_.

We motored over the mountain to Oberammergau. I do not dare to say
that I was disappointed in the performance. I suppose years ago, when
people began to go to Oberammergau, it was more int