the costly marbles of which the pavement is
made in fine mosaic-work have sunken away from their contours centuries
ago, so that now you only realize how beautiful it must have been in
its prime.

The high and imposing catafalque, erected for this occasion, which
filled the whole center of the large _basilique_, reaching almost to
the dome, was surrounded by enormous candelabra containing wax candles
as big as birch-trees.

The ministers of state and the diplomats had a _loge_ reserved for them
next to the orchestra, and, although there were carpets and rugs under
our feet, the humidity and cold penetrated to the marrow of our
stateful and diplomatic bones.

There were tiers of seats for people who were fortunate enough to
procure tickets.

Gayarre, the wonderful Spanish tenor, sang several solos, each one more
exquisite than the other. I have never heard a more beautiful voice,
and certainly have never heard a more perfect artist. The way he
phrases and manages his voice is a lesson in itself.

Tamagno, the famous Italian tenor, sings wonderfully also, but very
differently. He gives out all the voice he has, and you are overcome
with the strength and power and the compass of his unique voice. He is
the _tenor robusto par excellence_ of the world.

One cannot compare the two singers. Gayarre has the real quality of a
tenor, exquisitely tender, suave, and still powerful. He has a way of
keeping his voice bottled up until a grand climax; then he lets it
swell out in a triumphal burst.

This funeral service is a very long and fatiguing affair. I pity the
_carabinieri_ (the soldiers) who are on service that day. Although they
are men chosen for their powerful build, some of them cannot endure the
fatigue of standing "at arms" the two hours that the service lasts. I
suppose the poor things are put there from early dawn, and there they
must stand, stiff and straight, with uplifted sword, without moving a
muscle. We saw one (not this year, but last) faint dead away and drop
in a heap on the marble steps of the altar. His sword and casque made a
great clatter when they fell and rattled over the pavement. Four of his
comrades rushed in, picked him up, and carried him out, staggering
under his weight. He was replaced by another _carabinier_ noiselessly
and so quickly that you hardly knew that anything had happened.

The Argentina Theater attempted to give Wagner's Ring. It was a dismal
performance. Wagner is not at his