omparatively recent times the church
of St. Marine was used as a joiner's workshop, and one of the chapels
of Ste. Madeleine, parish church of the water-sellers, served as a
wine merchant's store! All that survives of the ancient splendour of
the Cite are Notre Dame and some portions of the Palais, including the
Ste. Chapelle.
We turn R. to the Rue d'Arcole that has swept away the old church of
St. Landry, near which, until the reign of Louis XIII., a market was
held for the sale of foundling children at thirty sous. The scandal
was abolished by the efforts of the gentle St. Vincent de Paul, Anne
of Austria's confessor. Turning L. along this street we emerge on the
Parvis, which we skirt to the R. along the facade of the new Hotel
Dieu, and reach the Rue de la Cite. We turn R., cross to the L. and
follow the broad Rue de Lutece to the Palais de Justice.
THE SAINTE CHAPELLE AND THE PALAIS DE JUSTICE.
Entering the Cour du Mai by the great iron grille which has replaced
the old stone portal, flanked by two towers, a passage on the left
leads us to the Cour de la Ste. Chapelle (p. 86). We enter by the west
porch of the lower chapel. On the central pier is a restored figure of
the Virgin whose original is said to have bowed her head to the famous
Scotch theologian Duns Scotus, in recognition of his championship of
the dogma of the Immaculate Conception, in 1304: in the decoration of
the base of the column and of the embrasures of the door, the
Fleur-de-Lys of St. Louis is seen alternating with the Castilian Tower
of his mother, Blanche of Castile, a decorative motive repeated in the
painting of the chapel.
Beautiful as are the vaultings and proportions of the lower chapel,
and the decoration, copied, as in the upper chapel, from traces of the
original colouring found under the whitewash, the visitor will
doubtless prefer to ascend, after a cursory inspection, the narrow,
winding stairway to the resplendent upper sanctuary, whose dazzling
brilliancy moved an ancient writer to declare that "in the contest
between light and darkness in architecture, the creator of the Ste.
Chapelle in the pride of his victory built with light itself." In the
apse, flooded by streams of colour falling from the windows, is the
platform or tribune where, in a rich reliquary of gold, glittering
with precious stones, and under a baldachin, the holy relics from
Constantinople were exposed in days of old. Part of the tribune is
preserved an
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