s plain; but as the river is ascended
woods appear, which gradually become thicker, presenting, as further
progress is made, more and more a tropical character.

As Paraguay is approached, low flat banks appear, which for many a long
league are marshy and impassable. It is the district of the Esteros, as
these flooded lands are called. Beyond them, in the wet season, immense
shallow lakes are formed; but when they are dried-up in the hot weather,
a grey dusty soil, full of cracks, and covered with wiry grass and low
shrubs, is left. Nothing can be more dreary than the appearance of the
country when the river is high; the water extending far and wide beyond
its crumbling banks, with rows of melancholy palms standing as landmarks
above the flood. These districts are, however, valuable for grazing
purposes; and before the war were covered by vast herds of cattle, now
swept away. Above the Tebiquari the country is higher and more
diversified. Vast woods, increasing in breadth and density, appear,
with ranges of distant hills beyond them.

NATIVES.

It is remarkable that the Guarani language, among the peasantry, has
almost superseded that of their Spanish invaders.

The natives, with their Indian blood, have inherited small hands and
feet, and coarse black hair. The women when young, with their long
tresses of jetty blackness, are often pretty; and some, probably
descended from Biscayans, are noted for their remarkable fairness.
Rubias, they are termed, with blue eyes and auburn hair. The men wear
dresses similar to that of the Gauchos. That of the women is
picturesque: a long cotton chemise cut low at the neck, with a deep
border of embroidery; loose lace sleeves; and a skirt of muslin, or
silk, fastened round the waist by a broad sash. Very few wear shoes.
Their hair is sometimes arranged in two long plaits, or formed in a
wreath round the head, or rolled up at the back and fastened by a large
comb. They also wear massive gold chains round the neck, large
ear-rings, and numerous rings. Their great amusement, next to smoking,
is sipping the yerba or native tea.

"Yerba," says Masterman, "is the dried and powdered leaf Ilex
Paraguayensis,--a tree in size and foliage resembling the orange, with
small white, clustered flowers. It belongs to the holly family, but
contains a bitter principle similar to, if not identical with, theine,
or the alkaloid found in tea and coffee."

It is taken in a somewhat singul