f cooking in order to secure the best results. Meat has its season as
well as many other foods. Pork is better in autumn and winter; veal in
the spring and summer; fowl in autumn and winter; lamb in the summer
and autumn; mutton and beef may be used any time. Meat should not be
allowed to remain in the paper in which it comes from market, as it
absorbs the juices and injures the flavor. Wipe all over with a clean
wet cloth. Examine carefully, remove any tainted or unclean portions
and keep in a clean, cool place until required. Good beef should be a
bright red color, well mixed with fat, and a layer of fat on the
outside; the suet should be dry and crumble easily. (See meat diagrams
for different cuts.) Mutton should have an abundance of clear, white
fat, the flesh fine grained and a bright red color. The fat of veal
should be clear and white, the lean pink, and should always be
thoroughly cooked. Pork is more indigestible when fresh than when
cured, as in bacon and ham. Fresh pork should be firm, the fat white,
the lean a pale red.

ROAST OF BEEF.

Wipe, trim, and tie or skewer into shape the cut for roasting. If
there be a large piece of the flank, cut it off and use for soups or
stews. If you wish to roast it, turn it underneath and fasten with a
skewer. Lay the meat on a rack in a pan, and dredge all over with
flour. Put on the top of a roast 2 or 3 tbsps. of dripping or pieces
of the fat; put it in a very hot oven at first. After the outside has
become seared, check off the heat and allow to cook slowly, basting
frequently. (See time table for baking.)

BROILED STEAK.

Trim the steak free from all suet (save all trimmings for stews or the
stock pot). Put the meat plate to warm, grease the broiler with a
little of the fat. See that the fire is clear. Put the steak on the
hot broiler and place it over the fire, turning every 10 seconds. It
will take about 8 minutes if the steak is 1 inch thick. When done,
place it on the hot plate, dredge it with salt and pepper; turn over
and season the other side. Serve immediately.

PAN-BROILED STEAK.

When the fire is not suitable for broiling, heat the frying pan until
smoking hot; trim the steak as for broiling, place firmly on the hot
pan, turn frequently as in broiling, with a broad knife or pancake
turner; never insert a fork, as it allows the juice to escape. It will
cook in 10 minutes. Season, and serve the same as broiled steak. If a
gravy is desired, fry a