ks
and stunted firs, for forty-five miles, a monotony unrelieved by one
picturesque feature. Then we longed for the "Garden of Nova Scotia," and
understood what is meant by the name.
A member of the Ottawa government, who was on his way to the
Governor-General's ball at Halifax, informed us that this country is
rich in minerals, in iron especially, and he pointed out spots where
gold had been washed out. But we do not covet it. And we were not sorry
to learn from this gentleman, that since the formation of the Dominion,
there is less and less desire in the Provinces for annexation to the
United States. One of the chief pleasures in traveling in Nova Scotia
now is in the constant reflection that you are in a foreign country; and
annexation would take that away.
It is nearly dark when we reach the head of the Bedford Basin. The noble
harbor of Halifax narrows to a deep inlet for three miles along the
rocky slope on which the city stands, and then suddenly expands into
this beautiful sheet of water. We ran along its bank for five miles,
cheered occasionally by a twinkling light on the shore, and then came
to a stop at the shabby terminus, three miles out of town. This basin is
almost large enough to float the navy of Great Britain, and it could
lie here, with the narrows fortified, secure from the attacks of
the American navy, hovering outside in the fog. With these patriotic
thoughts we enter the town. It is not the fault of the railroad, but its
present inability to climb a rocky hill, that it does not run into the
city. The suburbs are not impressive in the night, but they look better
then than they do in the daytime; and the same might be said of the city
itself. Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, forlorn town, and
this in spite of its magnificent situation.
It is a gala-night when we rattle down the rough streets, and have
pointed out to us the somber government buildings. The Halifax Club
House is a blaze of light, for the Governor-General is being received
there, and workmen are still busy decorating the Provincial Building
for the great ball. The city is indeed pervaded by his lordship, and
we regret that we cannot see it in its normal condition of quiet; the
hotels are full, and it is impossible to escape the festive feeling that
is abroad. It ill accords with our desires, as tranquil travelers, to be
plunged into such a vortex of slow dissipation. These people take their
pleasures more gravely tha
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