hestra struck up our
National Anthem, and at once our men rose up and stood to attention.
One of them told me afterwards that he felt cold shivers going down
his back as he did so, because he was in full view of everybody. For a
moment there was a pause, then the audience, understanding what the
action meant, rose en masse and stood till the music was over and then
clapped their hands and shouted "Viva l'Inghilterra!"

Many of our men were very anxious to see the Pope, and so it was
arranged that we should have an audience. Colonel Lamb informed the
1st Italian Division that we would march in a body through (p. 220)
their district. We started off in the morning, our young Highland
officer being in command. As we passed through the streets, the people
greeted us very cordially. Many of them raised their hats. The traffic,
too, would stop to let us pass. We went over the bridge of Hadrian and
arrived at the entrance of the Vatican beside St. Peter's in good
time. There we were met by an Irish priest, who remembered me from my
previous visit. I asked him if the men should break ranks but he told
me to let them come in formation. So, two by two, we mounted the
glorious Royal Staircase, the splendid surroundings being a good
setting for the fine looking soldiers. At the various landings, the
Swiss Guards in their picturesque uniforms presented arms, and we
found ourselves at last in a wonderful hall with richly frescoed walls
and ceiling. Here the men were halted and passed in single file into
the audience chamber. We had to wait for quite a long time, and at
last the Pope entered, clothed in white and looking much older and
more worn than when I had seen him only a year and a half before. He
was very guarded in what he said to us, because we were the first
soldiers whom he had received in a body, and any expression he might
make with reference to the war would be liable to various
interpretations. He spoke to some of our men in French and then wished
us health and protection and a safe return to Canada. Then, giving his
blessing he left us, and we made our way to the outer room where we
reformed and marched off as we had come.

That afternoon we were photographed in the Coliseum, and I visited the
interesting old church of St. Clement afterwards. Every evening, after
a day spent in rambling among antiquities, we used to attend the opera
in the Grand Opera House. It acted as a sort of relaxation after the
serious b