Where it forms an
elbow, touching the Mediterranean, as a smaller circle touches a larger,
within which it is inscribed, in the manner of a tangent, the name
changes from Alps to Apennine. It is the beginning of the Apennine which
constitutes the state of Genoa, the mountains there generally falling
down in barren, naked precipices into the sea. Wherever there is soil
on the lower parts, it is principally in olives and figs, in vines also,
mulberries, and corn. Where there are hollows well protected, there
are oranges. This is the case at Golfo della Spezia, Sestri, Bugiasco,
Nervi, Genoa, Pegli, Savona, Finale, Oneglia (where there are
abundance), St. Rerno, Ventimiglia, Mentone, and Monaco. Noli, into
which I was obliged to put, by a change of wind, is forty miles from
Genoa. There are twelve hundred inhabitants in the village, and many
separate houses round about. One of the precipices hanging over the sea,
is covered with aloes. But neither here, nor any where else I have been,
could I procure satisfactory information that they ever flower. The
current of testimony is to the contrary. Noli furnishes many fishermen.
Paths penetrate up into the mountains in several directions, about three
fourths of a mile; but these are practicable only for asses and mules. I
saw no cattle nor sheep in the settlement. The wine they make, is white
and indifferent. A curious cruet for oil and vinegar in one piece, I saw
here. A bishop resides here, whose revenue is two thousand livres, equal
to sixty-six guineas. I heard a nightingale here.
April 29. _Albenga_. In walking along the shore from Louano to this
place, I saw no appearance of shells. The tops of the mountains are
covered with snow, while there are olive trees, &c. on the lower parts.
I do not remember to have seen assigned any where, the cause of the
apparent color of the sea. Its water is generally clear and colorless,
if taken up and viewed in a glass. That of the Mediterranean is
remarkably so. Yet in the mass, it assumes, _by reflection_, the color
of the sky or atmosphere, black, green, blue, according to the state of
the weather. If any person wished to retire from his acquaintance, to
live absolutely unknown, and yet in the midst of physical enjoyments,
it should be in some of the little villages of this coast, where air,
water, and earth concur to offer what each has, most precious. Here are
nightingales, beccaficas, ortolans, pheasants, partridges, quails, a
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