These latter are truly superior, and are raised in
the greatest abundance in the south of the Territory, where, also,
they manufacture a very pleasant red wine, which goes by the name of
El Paso Wine. We take the manners and customs of the people of Taos as
a good type to judge of the manners and customs of the New Mexicans,
for the town is second only in size, in this Territory, to Santa
Fe. The inhabitants of New Mexico, notwithstanding their poverty and
neglect, owing to their remote locality, are perhaps as happy and
contented as any community in the world. They are not over-celebrated
for their chastity or virtue; and, to the disgrace of the white man,
they have not been assisted by him in these cardinal principles; but,
time will work wonders on this score and teach the immorality of such
proceedings. Their great source of enjoyment consists in dancing; and
hence the fandango is always looked for as a time when dull care will
be dispelled. A grand fandango is the event of a New Mexican's life.
These affairs are gotten up sometimes for charitable purposes, when
the money gathered in the sale of refreshments is distributed to the
poor; or else they are started by individuals to make a little money
out of. In a town the size of Taos, during the winter season, hardly
a night passes by without a dance. Written invitations in Spanish are
freely circulated about the town in order to entrap the strangers,
while the inhabitants are invited by other means. The music consists
of a high-strung violin and a species of guitar. This is perambulated
about the town. The players perform light dancing tunes and accompany
the music with their voices, making up the words as they go along.
This music is learned entirely by ear, and is transmitted from one
generation to another through the means of these fandangos. The vocal
music is anything but harmonious to the ear, but some of the airs,
when played on the instruments, are rather pleasing, and one, on
hearing them, finds himself often humming them afterwards. The powers
of music are nowhere better illustrated than among these people. Their
ready ear quickly catches a new tune, and it is not uncommon to hear,
in a Mexican town, a senorita giving vent to a negro melody or a
favorite polka which she has heard some American sing or whistle. At
Santa Fe there are several noted players on the violin and harp who
cannot read a word of music, yet they can play on their respective
instruments