argins the
splintered peaks stood up in a thousand forms of beauty. Right and left,
in the hollows of the mountains, the mist lay like ponds, opal and
translucent; and the shafts of the pine trees standing in it looked like
the reflections of themselves.

"It made the eyes ache--this silence of greatness; and it became a relief
to shift one's gaze to the reality of one's near neighbourhood--the
grass, and the rhododendron bushes, and even the dull walls of the
deserted auberge.

"A narrow path dipped over the hill-side and fled into the very jaws of
the moraine. Down the first of this path we raced, hand in hand; but
soon, finding the impetus overmastering us, we pulled up with difficulty,
and descended the rest of the way circumspectly.

"At the foot of the steep slope we came upon the little wooden hutch
where, ordinarily, one may procure a guide (also rough socks to stretch
over one's boots) for the passage of the glacier. Now, however, the shed
was closed and tenantless; and we must e'en dispense with a conductor,
should we adventure further.

"Herr Baedeker says, 'Guide unnecessary for the experienced.'

"'Fidele, are we experienced?'

"'We shall be, _mon ami_, when we have crossed. A guide could not alter
that.'

"'But it is true, _ma petite_. Come, then!'

"We clambered down amongst huge stones. Fidele's little feet went in and
out of the crannies like sand-martins. Suddenly, before we realized it,
we were on the glacier.

"Fidele exclaimed.

"'_Mon Dieu_! Is this ice--these blocks of dirty alabaster?'

"Alas! she was justified. This torrent of majestic crystal--seen from
above so smooth and bountiful--a flood of the milk of Nature dispensed
from the white bosom of the hills! Now, near at hand, what do we find it?
A medley of opaque blocks, smeared with grit and rubbish; a vast ruin of
avalanches hurled together and consolidated, and of the colour of rock
salt.

"'_Peste!_' I cried. 'We must get to the opposite bank, for all that.

"_Mignonne, allons voir si la rose,
Qui ce matin avoit desclose_....'"

"We clasped hands and set forth on our little traversee, our landmark an
odd-shaped needle of spar on the further side. My faith! it was simple.
The _paveurs_ of Nature had left the road a trifle rough, that was all.
Suddenly we came upon a wide fissure stretched obliquely like the mouth
of a sole. Going glibly, we learnt a small lesson of caution therefrom.
Six paces, and we should have tumble