states them to be. In
the present company there were men of sixty or seventy, whom I should
have pronounced at the first glance to be fifty.
Generally speaking our working minds seem to wear out their bodies
faster; perhaps because our climate is more stimulating; more, perhaps,
from the intenser stimulus of our political _regime_, which never leaves
any thing long at rest.
The tone of manners in this distinguished circle did not obtrude itself
upon my mind as different from that of highly-educated people in our own
country. It appeared simple, friendly, natural, and sincere. They talked
like people who thought of what they were saying, rather than how to say
it. The practice of thorough culture and good breeding is substantially
the same through the world, though smaller conventionalities may differ.
After lunch the whole party ascended to the picture gallery, passing on
our way the grand staircase and hall, said to be the most magnificent in
Europe. All that wealth could command of artistic knowledge and skill
has been expended here to produce a superb result. It fills the entire
centre of the building, extending up to the roof and surmounted by a
splendid dome. On three sides a gallery runs round it supported by
pillars. To this gallery you ascend on the fourth side by a staircase,
which midway has a broad, flat landing, from which stairs ascend, on the
right and left, into the gallery. The whole hall and staircase, carpeted
with a scarlet footcloth, give a broad, rich mass of coloring, throwing
out finely the statuary and gilded balustrades. On the landing is a
marble statue of a Sibyl, by Rinaldi. The walls are adorned by gorgeous
frescos from Paul Veronese. What is peculiar in the arrangements of this
hall is, that although so extensive, it still wears an air of warm
homelikeness and comfort, as if it might be a delightful place to lounge
and enjoy life, amid the ottomans, sofas, pictures, and statuary, which
are disposed here and there throughout.
All this, however, I passed rapidly by as I ascended the staircase, and
passed onward to the picture gallery. This was a room about a hundred
feet long by forty wide, surmounted by a dome gorgeously finished with
golden palm, trees and carving. This hall is lighted in the evening by a
row of gaslights placed outside the ground glass of the dome; this light
is concentrated and thrown down by strong reflectors, communicating thus
the most brilliant radiance without
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