the voyage, Signor
Alvigini, _Intendente_ of Genoa, and his party, we are soon in the hands
of the _commissionnaire_ of the Hotel de Rome. As we land, our passports
are received by the police of Victor Emmanuel, who have replaced those
of the late _regime_.
As we enter our carriage, we expect to see streets filled with crowds of
turbulent people, or dotted with knots of persons conversing ominously
in suppressed tones; and streets deserted, with shops closed; and
streets barricaded. But in this matter we are agreeably disappointed.
The shops are all open, the street venders are quietly tending their
tables, people go about their ordinary affairs, and wear their
commonplace, every-day look. The only difference apparent to the eye
between the existing state of things and that which formerly obtained
is, that there are few street brawls and robberies, though every one
goes armed,--that the uniform of the soldiers of Francis II. is replaced
by the dark gray dress of the National Guard,--and that the Hag of
the Tyrant King no longer waves over the castle-prison of Sant' Elmo.
Garibaldi, on leaving Naples, had formally confided the city to the
National Guard; and they had nobly sustained the trust reposed in them.
A letter of introduction to General Orsini, brought safely with us,
though not without adventure, through the Austrian dominions, gains
a courteous reception from General Turr, chief aide-de-camp to the
"Dictator," and a pass to the camp. General Turr, an Hungarian refugee,
is a person of distinguished appearance, not a little heightened by
his peculiar dress, which consists of the usual Garibaldian uniform
partially covered with a white military cloak, which hangs gracefully
over his elegant figure.
After a brief, but pleasant, interview with this gentleman, we climb to
the Castle of Sant' Elmo, built on a high eminence commanding the town,
and with its guns mounted, not so as to defend it against an invading
enemy, but to hurl destruction on the devoted subjects of the Bourbon.
We are told that the people Lad set their hearts on seeing this
fortress, which they look upon as a standing menace, razed to the
ground, and its site covered with peaceful dwellings. And it is not
without regret that we have since learned that Victor Emmanuel has
thought it inexpedient to comply with this wish. Nor, in our ignorance,
can we divest ourselves entirely of the belief that it would have been a
wise as well as conciliator
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