so above you that you get the impression it is much nearer
than it actually is. When the eye is full it says, "Here we are," and
the hand is ready to prove the fact; but in this case there is an
astonishing discrepancy between what the eye reports and what the hand
finds out.
Cape Eternity, the wife of this colossus, stands across a chasm through
which flows a small tributary of the Saguenay, and is a head or two
shorter, as becomes a wife, and less rugged and broken in outline.
From Riviere du Loup, where we passed the night and ate our first
"Tommy-cods," our thread of travel makes a big loop around New
Brunswick to St. John, thence out and down through Maine to Boston,--a
thread upon which many delightful excursions and reminiscences might be
strung. We traversed the whole of the valley of the Metapedia, and
passed the doors of many famous salmon streams and rivers, and heard
everywhere the talk they inspire; one could not take a nap in the car
for the excitement of the big fish stories he was obliged to overhear.
The Metapedia is a most enticing-looking stream; its waters are as
colorless as melted snow; I could easily have seen the salmon in it as
we shot along, if they had come out from their hiding-places. It was
the first white-water stream we had seen since leaving the Catskills;
for all the Canadian streams are black or brown, either from the iron
in the soil or from the leechings of the spruce swamps. But in New
Brunswick we saw only these clear, silver-shod streams; I imagined they
had a different ring or tone also. The Metapedia is deficient in good
pools in its lower portions; its limpid waters flowing with a tranquil
murmur over its wide, evenly paved bed for miles at a stretch. The
salmon pass over these shallows by night and rest in the pools by day.
The Restigouche, which it joins, and which is a famous salmon stream
and the father of famous salmon streams, is of the same complexion and
a delight to look upon. There is a noted pool where the two join, and
one can sit upon the railroad bridge and count the noble fish in the
lucid depths below. The valley here is fertile, and has a cultivated,
well-kept look.
We passed the Jacquet, the Belledune, the Nepissisquit, the Miramichi
("happy retreat") in the night, and have only their bird-call names to
report.
INDEX
Anemone.
Angler, a born; eagerness of the.
Arbutus.
Asters.
Audubon, John James.
Aurora borealis, an.
Bals
|