lley below long
shadows were stealing--the rippling green lake reflecting the houses
and trees just as they stood along its banks. Several small canoes,
moored here and there to posts in the water, were dancing upon the
waves; and one solitary fisherman was paddling over to a grassy
point. In front of the houses, groups of natives were seen; some
thrown at full length upon the ground, and others indolently leaning
against the bamboos.

With whoop and halloo, we ran down the hills, the villagers soon
hurrying forth to see who were coming. As we drew near, they gathered
round, all curiosity to know what brought the "karhowrees" into their
quiet country. The doctor contriving to make them understand the
purely social object of our visit, they gave us a true Tahitian
welcome; pointing into their dwellings, and saying they were ours as
long as we chose to remain.

We were struck by the appearance of these people, both men and women;
so much more healthful than the inhabitants of the bays. As for the
young girls, they were more retiring and modest, more tidy in their
dress, and far fresher and more beautiful than the damsels of the
coast. A thousand pities, thought I, that they should bury their
charms in this nook of a valley.

That night we abode in the house of Rartoo, a hospitable old chief. It
was right on the shore of the lake; and at supper we looked out
through a rustling screen of foliage upon the surface of the starlit
water.

The next day we rambled about, and found a happy little community,
comparatively free from many deplorable evils to which the rest of
their countrymen are subject. Their time, too, was more occupied. To
my surprise, the manufacture of tappa was going on in several
buildings. European calicoes were seldom seen, and not many articles
of foreign origin of any description.

The people of Tamai were nominally Christians; but being so remote
from ecclesiastical jurisdiction, their religion sat lightly upon
them. We had been told, even, that many heathenish games and dances
still secretly lingered in their valley.

Now the prospect of seeing an old-fashioned "hevar," or Tahitian reel,
was one of the inducements which brought us here; and so, finding
Rartoo rather liberal in his religious ideas, we disclosed our
desire. At first he demurred; and shrugging his shoulders like a
Frenchman, declared it could not be brought about--was a dangerous
matter to attempt, and might bring all concerned i