the great caution of
this policy, so nicely calculated for the preservation of this country
from all pestilential distempers. Others will as probably regard it as
too exact and formal to be constantly persisted in, in seasons of the
utmost safety, as well as in times of danger. I will not decide either
way, but will content myself with observing that I never yet saw or
heard of a place where a traveler had so much trouble given him at his
landing as here. The only use of which, as all such matters begin and
end in form only, is to put it into the power of low and mean fellows
to be either rudely officious or grossly corrupt, as they shall see
occasion to prefer the gratification of their pride or of their avarice.

Of this kind, likewise, is that power which is lodged with other
officers here, of taking away every grain of snuff and every leaf
of tobacco brought hither from other countries, though only for the
temporary use of the person during his residence here. This is executed
with great insolence, and, as it is in the hands of the dregs of the
people, very scandalously; for, under pretense of searching for tobacco
and snuff, they are sure to steal whatever they can find, insomuch that
when they came on board our sailors addressed us in the Covent-garden
language: "Pray, gentlemen and ladies, take care of your swords and
watches." Indeed, I never yet saw anything equal to the contempt and
hatred which our honest tars every moment expressed for these Portuguese
officers.

At Bellisle lies buried Catharine of Arragon, widow of prince Arthur,
eldest son of our Henry VII, afterwards married to, and divorced from
Henry VIII. Close by the church where her remains are deposited is
a large convent of Geronymites, one of the most beautiful piles of
building in all Portugal.

In the evening, at twelve, our ship, having received previous visits
from all the necessary parties, took the advantage of the tide, and
having sailed up to Lisbon cast anchor there, in a calm and moonshiny
night, which made the passage incredibly pleasant to the women, who
remained three hours enjoying it, whilst I was left to the cooler
transports of enjoying their pleasures at second-hand; and yet, cooler
as they may be, whoever is totally ignorant of such sensation is, at the
same time, void of all ideas of friendship.

Wednesday.--Lisbon, before which we now lay at anchor, is said to be
built on the same number of hills with old Rome; but these