erful that, in these days of
commerce, Urga, and in fact all Mongolia, could have existed
throughout the centuries with so little change.

There is, of course, no lack of modern influence in the sacred city,
but as yet it is merely a veneer which has been lightly superimposed
upon its ancient civilization, leaving almost untouched the basic
customs of its people. This has been due to the remoteness of
Mongolia. Until a few years ago, when motor cars first made their
way across the seven hundred miles of plains, the only access from
the south was by camel caravan, and the monotonous trip offered
little inducement to casual travelers. The Russians came to Urga
from the north and, until the recent war, their influence was
paramount along the border. They were by no means anxious to have
other foreigners exploit Mongolia, and they wished especially to
keep the country as a buffer-state between themselves and China.

Not only is Urga the capital of Mongolia and the only city of
considerable size in the entire country but it is also the residence
of the Hutukhtu, or Living Buddha, the head of both the Church and
the State. Across the valley his palaces nestle close against the
base of the Bogdo-ol (God's Mountain), which rises in wooded slopes
from the river to an elevation of eleven thousand feet above sea
level.

The Sacred Mountain is a vast game preserve, which is patrolled by
two thousand lamas, and every approach is guarded by a temple or a
camp of priests. Great herds of elk, roebuck, boar, and other
animals roam the forests, but to shoot within the sacred precincts
would mean almost certain death for the transgressor. Some years ago
several Russians from Urga made their way up the mountain during the
night and killed a bear. They were brought back in chains by a mob
of frenzied lamas. Although the hunters had been beaten nearly to
death, it required all the influence of the Russian diplomatic agent
to save what remained of their lives.

The Bogdo-ol extends for twenty-five miles along the Tola Valley,
shutting off Urga from the rolling plains to the south. Like a
gigantic guardian of the holy city at its base, it stands as the
only obstacle to the wireless station which is soon to be erected.

The Hutukhtu has three palaces on the banks of the Tola River. One
of them is a hideous thing, built in Russian style. The other two at
least have the virtue of native architecture. In the main palace the
central structur