Gittlemans, we found, were to keep us company for some time. At the
expected hour we all tried to find room in a car indicated by the
conductor. We tried, but could only find enough space on the floor for
our baggage, on which we made believe sitting comfortably. For now we
were obliged to exchange the comparative comforts of a third class
passenger train for the certain discomforts of a fourth class one. There
were only four narrow benches in the whole car, and about twice as many
people were already seated on these as they were probably supposed to
accommodate. All other space, to the last inch, was crowded by
passengers or their luggage. It was very hot and close and altogether
uncomfortable, and still at every new station fresh passengers came
crowding in, and actually made room, spare as it was, for themselves. It
became so terrible that all glared madly at the conductor as he allowed
more people to come into that prison, and trembled at the announcement
of every station. I cannot see even now how the officers could allow
such a thing; it was really dangerous. The most remarkable thing was the
good-nature of the poor passengers. Few showed a sour face even; not a
man used any strong language (audibly, at least). They smiled at each
other as if they meant to say, "I am having a good time; so are you,
aren't you?" Young Gittleman was very gallant, and so cheerful that he
attracted everybody's attention. He told stories, laughed, and made us
unwilling to be outdone. During one of his narratives he produced a
pretty memorandum book that pleased one of us very much, and that
pleasing gentleman at once presented it to her. She has kept it since in
memory of the giver, and, in the right place, I could tell more about
that matter--very interesting.

I have given so much space to the description of that one night's
adventures because I remember it so distinctly, with all its
discomforts, and the contrast of our fellow-travellers' kindly
dispositions. At length that dreadful night passed, and at dawn about
half the passengers left, all at once. There was such a sigh of relief
and a stretching of cramped limbs as can only be imagined, as the
remaining passengers inhaled the fresh cold air of dewy dawn. It was
almost worth the previous suffering to experience the pleasure of relief
that followed.

All day long we travelled in the same train, sleeping, resting, eating,
and wishing to get out. But the train stopped for a very