nn, I should think more than the expected six hundred had found
place. From garret to cellar, every corner was occupied; bread, wine,
and steamy dishes passed in a steady whirl from kitchen and tap-room
into all the roaring chambers. In the other inns it was the same, and
many took their drink and provender in the open air. I met my
philosopher of the previous evening, who said, "Now, what do you think
of our _Landsgemeinde_?" and followed my answer with his three _Ja's_,
the last a more desponding sigh than ever. Since the business was over,
I judged that the people would be less reserved,--which, indeed, was the
case. Nearly all with whom I spoke expressed their satisfaction with the
day's work. I walked through the crowds in all directions, vainly
seeking for personal beauty. There were few women present, but a
handsome man is only less beautiful than a beautiful woman, and I like
to look at the former when the latter is absent. I was surprised at the
great proportion of under-sized men; only weaving, in close rooms, for
several generations, could have produced so many squat bodies and short
legs. The Appenzellers are neither a handsome nor a picturesque race,
and their language harmonizes with their features; but I learned, during
that day at Hundwyl, to like and to respect them.

Pastor Etter insisted on my dining with him; two younger clergymen were
also guests, and my friend the Chancellor Engwiller came to make further
kind offers of service. The people of each parish, I learned, elect
their own pastor, and pay him his salary. In municipal matters the same
democratic system prevails as in the cantonal government. Education is
well provided for, and the morals of the community are watched and
guarded by a committee consisting of the pastor and two officials
elected by the people. Outer-Rhoden is almost exclusively Protestant,
while Inner-Rhoden--the mountain region around the Sentis--is Catholic.
Although thus geographically and politically connected, there was
formerly little intercourse between the inhabitants of the two parts of
the Canton, owing to their religious differences; but now they come
together in a friendly way, and are beginning to intermarry.

After dinner, the officials departed in carriages, to the sound of
trumpets, and thousands of the people followed. Again the roads and
paths leading away over the green hills were dark with lines of
pedestrians; but a number of those whose homes lay nearest