. This fur is neither
so beautifully soft and glossy, nor so rich in color as the Russian
sable; but the difference in price is very considerable. In tone of
color minx comes next to Canada sable. Squirrel will not be among the
favorite furs this winter; it will be chiefly used for lining cloaks and
mantles. Muffs are of the medium size adopted during previous winters.
We may add that fur is not excluded from mourning costume.
_Bonnets_, although fanciful in their appearance, have a warm effect,
being composed of plush, velvet, and terry velvet. Felt and beaver
bonnets are also much in vogue, trimmed simply, but richly, generally
with colors to match, and with drooping feathers. Genin has reproduced
the latest London and continental modes. Bonnets of violet velvet are
also trimmed with a black lace, upon which are sprinkled, here and
there, jet beads; this lace is passed over the bonnet and fixed upon one
of the sides by a noeud of ribbon velvet of different widths; two wide
ends, which droop over the shoulder, serve to attach a quantity of
coques or ends, also of different widths. The interior is decorated with
hearts-ease of velvet and yellow hearts, and is fixed by several ends of
velours opingle ribbon, the same shade and color as the centre of the
hearts-ease.
_Mantelets_ of all sorts of shapes are worn: the most striking are very
full, and have a hood. It requires great dexterity in cutting out the
mantelet to give a graceful appearance to this innovation. The shape
adopted is that called _capuchin bonne femme_ (or old woman's hood); it
is very comfortable, and the least apt to spoil the flowers or feathers
of the head-dress. There are also mantelets like the above, made of
lace, lined with colored silk, which sets off the pattern; and this is
most in favor. Every thing in preparation for this winter is far from
plain, being trimmed with embroidery, &c., or jet, lace, ribbons,
velvet, blond, braid, half-twisted silk, gold beads, colored embroidery,
in short, all the array of rich ornaments possible will be the order of
the ensuing season.
I. _The Waistcoat Fashion_, of which we have heretofore given an
illustration, is said to increase, and as it is graceful and convenient
it would be more popular but for the ridicule cast on all innovations by
the vulgar or profligate women who expose their natural shamelessness
and ambition of notoriety by appearing in what is called the Bloomer
costume--a costume which, i
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