shore and met the Vizier. His
African slave argued with me for Mohammed and did not know how to let
me go, he was so interested in the business.
"April 25. Gave him an Arabic copy of the gospel, which he at once
began to read, and carried it off as a great prize, which I hope he
will find it to be.
"Bushire, Persia. Called on the governor, a Persian Khan. He was very
particular in his attentions. Seated me on his own seat and then sat
by my side. After the usual salutations and inquiries the calean
(pipe), was introduced, then coffee in china cups placed within silver
ones, then calean, then some rose-water syrup, then calean. Observing
the windows of stained glass, I began to question him about the art of
coloring glass, observing that the modern Europeans were inferior to
the ancient in the manufacture of the article. He expressed his
surprise that Europeans, who were so skillful in making watches,
should fail in any handicraft work. I could not help recollecting the
Emperor of China's sarcastic remark on the Europeans and their arts,
and therefore dropped the subject. On his calean--I called it hookah
at first, but he did not understand me--I noticed several little
paintings of the Virgin and child, and asked him whether such things
were not unlawful among Mohammedans. He answered very coolly 'Yes,' as
much as to say, 'What then?' I lamented that the Eastern Christians
should use such things in their churches. He repeated the words of a
good man who was found fault with for having an image before him while
at prayer, 'God is nearer to me than that image, so that I do not see
it.' This man, I afterwards found, is like most of the other grandees
of the East, a murderer.
"On the 30th of May, our Persian dresses were ready, and we set out
for Shiraz. The Persian dress consists of first, stockings and shoes
in one; next, a pair of large blue trousers, or else a pair of huge
red boots; then the shirt, then the tunic, and above it the coat, both
of chintz, and a great coat. I have here described my own dress, most
of which I have on at this moment. On the head is worn an enormous
cone made of the skin of the black Tartar sheep with the wool on. If
to this description of my dress I add that my beard and mustachios
have been suffered to vegetate undisturbed ever since I left India;
that I am sitting on a Persian carpet, in a room without tables or
chairs, and that I bury my hand in the pillar (rice), without waiting
fo
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