NCAS.

In all cities there is a street favoured by fashion. This in Mexico is
the Calle de Plateros (street of the silversmiths), so called because
there the workers in precious metals and dealers in bijouterie "most do
congregate."

In this street the _jovenes dorados_ (gilded youth) of modern
Tenochtitlan strolled in tight-fitting patent leather boots,
canary-coloured kid gloves, cane in hand, and quizzing-glass to the eye.
There, too, the senoras and senoritas go shopping bareheaded, with but
the shawl thrown over the crown hood-fashion.

When out only for promenade, none of these linger long in the street of
the silversmiths. They but pass through it on their way to the
_Alameda_, a sort of half-park, half-garden, devoted to the public use,
and tastefully laid out in walks, terraces, and parterres with flowers,
and fountains; grand old evergreen trees overshadowing all. For in that
summery clime shade, not sun, is the desideratum. Here the _jovenes
dorados_ spent part of the afternoons sauntering along the arcaded
walks, or seated around the great fountain watching the play of its
crystal waters. But with an eye to something besides--the senoritas,
who are there, too, flirting the fans with a dexterity which speaks of
much practice--speaks of something more. Not every movement made by
these rustling segments of circles is intended to create currents of air
and cool the heated skin. Many a twist and turn, watched with anxious
eyes, conveys intelligence interesting as words never spoken. In Mexico
many a love tale is told, passion declared, jealous pang caused or
alleviated, by the mute languages of fans and fingers.

Though the Calle de Plateros terminates at the gate of the Alameda, the
same line of street is continued half a mile further on, to the
fashionable drive of the _Pasco Nuevo_, sometimes called Pasco de
Buccareli, from the Viceroy who ruled New Spain when it was laid out.
It is the Rotten Row of Mexico, for it is a ride as well as a drive; and
at a certain hour of the afternoon a stream of carriages, with strings
of horsemen, may be seen tending towards it, the carriages drawn, some
of them by mules, others by the small native horses, and a distinguished
few by large English or American animals, there known as _frisones_. It
is the top thing to have a pair of "_frisones_."

In the carriages, the senoras and senoritas are seen attired in their
richest robes--full evening dress--bare-armed and