of about twenty steps, and then
found myself in a vault of a hundred feet long, and fifty or sixty high.
A small hole on the left leads from this a winding course of I believe
not less than half an Irish mile, exhibiting a variety that struck me
much. In some places the cavity in the rock is so large that when well
lighted up by candles (not flambeaux; Lord Kingsborough once showed it me
with them, and we found their smoke troublesome) it takes the appearance
of a vaulted cathedral, supported by massy columns. The walls, ceiling,
floor, and pillars, are by turns composed of every fantastic form; and
often of very beautiful incrustations of spar, some of which glitters so
much that it seems powdered with diamonds; and in others the ceiling is
formed of that sort which has so near a resemblance to a cauliflower.
The spar formed into columns by the dropping of water has taken some very
regular forms; but others are different, folded in plaits of light
drapery, which hang from their support in a very pleasing manner. The
angles of the walls seem fringed with icicles. One very long branch of
the cave, which turns to the north, is in some places so narrow and low,
that one crawls into it, when it suddenly breaks into large vaulted
spaces, in a thousand forms. The spar in all this cave is very
brilliant, and almost equal to Bristol stone. For several hundred yards
in the larger branch there is a deep water at the bottom of the declivity
to the right, which the common people call the river. A part of the way
is over a sort of potter's clay, which moulds into any form, and is of a
brown colour; a very different soil from any in the neighbouring country.
I have seen the famous cave in the Peak, but think it very much inferior
to this; and Lord Kingsborough, who has viewed the Grot d'Aucel in
Burgundy, says that it is not to be compared with it.

But the commanding region of the Galtees deserves more attention. Those
who are fond of scenes in which Nature reigns in all her wild
magnificence should visit this stupendous chain. It consists of many
vast mountains, thrown together in an assemblage of the most interesting
features, from the boldness and height of the declivities, freedom of
outline, and variety of parts, filling a space of about six miles by
three or four. Galtymore is the highest point, and rises like the lord
and father of the surrounding progeny. From the top you look down upon a
great extent of mountain,