of luxuriant
gold or silver lace is worked, and round the buttonhole similar profuse
ornament is planted, and upon the cuffs. A stripe of intricately
patterned gold lace runs down the seams of the trousers, which latter,
tight-fitting at the top, are adjusted very closely at the calf of the
leg. For riding in rough country a further leg-covering is worn; a kind
of loose trousers put over the others and buckled round the waist,
called _chaparreras_, made and ornamented with similar material. The
crowning glory of the whole is the huge Mexican hat. This is made of
thick beaver-looking felt, with a soft silky surface. Its form is well
known with a very high tapering dome-like crown and very broad brim.
This great headgear is also profusely ornamented with gold or silver
lace, worn principally by the _rancheros_, and the owner's initials are
generally worked upon the front of the crown in large gold letters. The
hat is of considerable weight. To return to the lower members again,
the feet are armed with a pair of spurs of appalling size and weight,
the "wheel" portion being several inches in diameter, and the whole
weighing several pounds each. These are often of steel inlaid with gold
or silver, and are buckled upon the foot with an elaborate strap and
embossed medallion. These spurs do not lacerate the horse, as their
points are blunt. The effect of the whole dress is almost dazzling, but
the big hat set over the tight trousers and short coat gives a somewhat
top-heavy appearance.

The trappings of the horse are not unworthy of the gorgeous habiliments
of the _jinete_, or horseman. The Mexican _montura_, or saddle, is of
beautifully tanned leather of a high colour, and profusely-embroidered
with silver patterns and ornamentations, and the whole is exceedingly
heavy. It is, however, remarkably comfortable, and "the horse carries
the weight," the Mexican will inform you if you criticise its bulk in
comparison with an English saddle. For work in the country no
experienced traveller would ever think of using the English form of
saddle. In Mexico or South American countries it is altogether
unsuitable, both for horse and rider, giving a maximum of fatigue and
minimum of comfort. Also the heavy Mexican bit and single rein are
better for travel in these regions, as ever used by the natives. This
bit is not necessarily cruel, and in fact the Mexican horses are so
remarkably trained as to their mouths, that the faintest touch of a