last
stages of demoralization; and the sole method of securing work is
through the middle-men or "sweaters," who ask no questions and require
no reference, but make as large a profit for themselves as can be wrung
from the helplessness and the bitter need of those with whom they
reckon.

The difficulties to be faced by the woman whose only way of self-support
is limited to the needle, whether in machine or hand work, fourfold. (1)
Her own incompetency must very often head the list and prevent her from
securing first-class work; (2) middle-men or sweaters lower the price to
starvation point; (3) contract work done in prisons or reformatories
brings about the same result; and (4) she is underbid from still another
quarter, that of the country woman who takes the work at any price
offered.

These conditions govern the character and quality of the work obtained,
even the best firms being somewhat affected by the last two clauses. And
in every trade there may always be found three distinct classes of
employers: the west-side firms, which in many cases care for their
workmen, in degree at least, and where the work is done under conditions
that must be called favorable; the east-side firms, representing
generally cheaper material and lower rates; and last, the slop-work,
which may be either east or west, most often the former, and includes
every form of outrage and oppression that workers can know.

Clothing in all its multiplied forms takes the first place in the
ninety-two trades, and the workers on what is known as "white wear" form
the large majority of the always increasing army. For many reasons, the
shirt-makers naturally head the list,--the shirt-makers about whom has
hung a certain sentimental interest since the day when poor Tom Hood's
impassioned plea in their behalf first saw the light. Yet to-day, in
spite of popular belief that they are the class most grossly wronged,
the shirt-maker fares far better than the majority of the workers on any
other form of clothing. This always, however, if she is fortunate enough
to have direct relation with some large factory, or with an
establishment which gives out the work directly into the hands of the
women themselves. Given these conditions, it is possible for a
first-class operator to make from seven to twelve dollars per week, the
latter sum being certain only in the factories where steam is the motive
power and where experience has given the utmost facility in handling