and the situation secured me a residence which I
cared more for than maintenance which might be obtained by other work.
"The village in which I was now to teach was the largest community in
the canton, with more than 2000 inhabitants, and 400 citizens entitled
to vote, and it was situated among the outlying hills of the Jura.
Towards the south, rich meadows and well cultivated fields, slope down
to the Aar, which hastens with rapid course through the valley to the
Rhine. On the other side of the Aar the ground rises gently up to hilly
Emmenthal, and behind it rises the chain of the Alps. The Urner and
Swiss mountains in the east, the Rigi standing alone in foremost
grandeur; in the centre the Eiger, Moench, and Jungfrau, up to the Savoy
Alps, among which Mont Blanc rises its head majestically. Towards the
west the lakes of Viel, Neufchatel, and Meurten spread their shining
mirrors. It would be difficult to find anywhere a country so lovely,
and at the same time grand, as here presents itself to the eyes.
"The houses of the village are detached and scattered about in groups
for some height up the mountain, almost every one is surrounded by a
garden and meadow, and shaded by fruit-trees; a clear rivulet glides
with many windings through the village. Unwillingly do the thatched
roofs give way to the prescribed tiles. The farming of the inhabitants
comprises fields, meadows, and woods, the herding of cattle, and on the
most valuable properties, mountain pastures, and the making of butter
and cheese. The vine also is cultivated. The Grencheners do not deny
that in common years their wine is sour, they sneer at it in songs and
jests, but yet they drink it, and find it wholesome. They are a
powerful race, of Allemanni origin, the men are mostly slender but
strong, and some of them uncommonly tall. Among the women and maidens
there is frequently that Madonna-like beauty which is often to be found
in Catholic districts. They are cheerful and gifted with humour,
perseveringly industrious, and skilful in adapting themselves to every
position and helping themselves. It is not the custom with them to
close the doors; it is mentioned as an unprecedented circumstance, that
three years ago a watch was stolen in the village. But the locality is
not favourable for thieves; woe to him who allows himself to be caught,
he would not come unscathed into the hands of justice.
"The Grencheners had the repute of untamed lawlessness, which
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