r, we saw thick green crops that meant grazing galore, and
here and there among the crops large prosperous-looking villages, or
stately monasteries that should assuredly be well stocked with grain and
tsampa and other delights. One thought of Moses when he caught his first
glimpse of the promised land!

Our only fear was of the Tibetan army fleeing in front of us--whether
they might not have looted this valley also, and frightened the
inhabitants into hiding all their stores. But the valley was so large
and prosperous-looking that it seemed certain that their depredations
could not have affected the whole of it. So we went down the hill with
glad hearts. The first two villages we passed, as we entered the main
valley, were empty, and for a moment we were afraid again; but a mile
further on we came upon a large village--that of Kamba Baji--which on
inspection proved a veritable mine of wealth.

We camped for that night beside it, and spent the afternoon probing its
resources. The Kazi (or headman) of Kamba Baji was our friend from the
first. He gave us all he had, taking our coin in exchange in the spirit
in which it was offered. He owned a great deal of land up and down the
valley, and that land and its products both then and afterwards, he
placed ungrudgingly at our service, even though the rupees which he
received in exchange, albeit generous payment, hardly compensated him
for the annoyance which, as a substantial country gentleman, he must
have felt at our unwarrantable intrusion upon his property. Our
relations remained cordial ever afterwards. His house lay on the road
which the escort to the post always took between Chaksam and Pete-jong.
For that escort, as they rode up, two elderly handmaidens of the Kazi's
household were ever found waiting with brimful jugs of new milk in their
arms, with which to refresh the travellers.

CHAPTER XVII

THE CROSSING OF THE TSANGPO: A SAD ACCIDENT

The following day we marched down the Tsangpo or Brahmaputra to Chaksam
Ferry. A small column of mounted infantry had ridden ahead of us and
captured the local flotilla, which consisted of two large rectangular
ferry boats, capable each of holding about twenty mules, a hundred men,
or two hundred maunds of stores. Each boat was decorated with a roughly
carved figure-head representing a horse. One horse had lost one of its
ears, which rather detracted from its otherwise imposing appearance. The
party that had preceded us t