it more than once, and could not see, without some indignation, that
substantial English dish banished in so ignominious a manner, to make
way for French kickshaws.

The dessert was brought up at last, which in truth was as extraordinary
as anything that had come before it. The whole, when ranged in its
proper order, looked like a very beautiful winter-piece. There were
several pyramids of candied sweetmeats, that hung like icicles, with
fruit scattered up and down, and hid in an artificial kind of frost. At
the same time there were great quantities of cream beaten up into a
snow, and near them little plates of sugar-plums, disposed like so many
heaps of hailstones, with a multitude of congelations in jellies of
various colours. I was indeed so pleased with the several objects which
lay before me, that I did not care for displacing any of them, and was
half angry with the rest of the company, that for the sake of a piece of
lemon-peel, or a sugar-plum, would spoil so pleasing a picture. Indeed,
I could not but smile to see several of them cooling their mouths with
lumps of ice which they had just before been burning with salts and
peppers.

* * * * *

As soon as this show was over I took my leave, that I might finish my
dinner at my own house: for as I in every thing love what is simple and
natural, so particularly in my food; two plain dishes, with two or three
good-natured, cheerful, ingenious friends, would make me more pleased
and vain, than all that pomp and luxury can bestow. For it is my maxim,
that he keeps the greatest table, who has the most valuable company at
it.

[Footnote 163: Butler, speaking of Talgol ("Hudibras," Part I. canto ii.
305), says:

"He many a boar and huge dun-cow
Did, like another Guy, o'erthrow,
But Guy, with him in fight compared,
Had like the boar or dun-cow fared."
]

[Footnote 164: Samuel Daniel's "History" was published in 1613.]

No. 149. [STEELE.

From _Tuesday, March 21_, to _Thursday, March 23, 1709-10_.

* * * * *

_From my own Apartment, March 22._

It has often been a solid grief to me, when I have reflected on this
glorious nation, which is the scene of public happiness and liberty,
that there are still crowds of private tyrants, against whom there
neither is any law now in being, nor can there be invented any by the
wit