is surrounded by water; and the other half, toward the east and
south, by land and a ditch. It is entirely surrounded, almost in a
circular form, by a rampart wall of stone; this is high and strong and
so thick that in some parts it is more than three varas wide, and one
can walk on top of it everywhere. It extends three-quarters of a legua,
and is adorned and furnished with battlements and merlons in modern
style; with towers, cavaliers, and Hankers at intervals; and with two
castles and some bulwarks. It is furnished with excellent artillery,
and a force of six hundred (sometimes more) Spanish soldiers--with
their master-of-camp, sargento-mayor, captains, wardens, and other
military officers. There are five gates and several posterns.
33. The streets of the city are beautifully laid out, and level, like
those of Mexico and Puebla. The main plaza is large, rectangular, and
well proportioned. Its eastern side is occupied by the cathedral;
the southern, by the government building, which is a splendid
palace--large, handsome, and very spacious; it was built by a merchant,
the favorite [39] of a governor, for his own use. The northern side
of the plaza (opposite the palace) contains the cabildo's house,
the jail, and other buildings that belong to private persons (which
also occupy the western side).
34. The houses in the city, before the earthquakes of the years 45
and 58, numbered six hundred (many of which must be by this time
rebuilt), most of them of hewn stone with handsome iron balconies and
rows of windows, and built in costly style. In them resided various
gentlemen and nobles, and two hundred citizens who were merchants
(who themselves form a commonwealth); there were also soldiers,
royal officials, prebends, and other citizens. Much of its material
grandeur and beauty was destroyed by the earthquakes above mentioned,
but it lost not the essential greatness which it has and always has
had as a court and an illustrious commonwealth. In the villages of
Bagunbaya and others of its suburbs there are probably six hundred
houses more--not counting those of the Parian, which number many more
than those of the city and suburbs together. Along the river are a
great many country houses for recreation--some very costly, and all
very convenient and pleasant, with gardens, orchards, and baths.
35. It is the capital of all these islands, with its governor, who is
the captain-general, and president of the royal chanciller
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