qual attraction
to the traveller. Ellora can boast of the wonderful "Kylas;" Ajunta of
those most interesting frescoes which carry the art of painting back to
an unknown period, but which at Ellora have been almost totally
obliterated by the ruthless and fanatical zeal of Aurungzebe.

A few miles from the caves of Ellora frowns the rock fortress of
Doulatabad, a conspicuous object from every side, and we soon discovered
its interior to be as singularly interesting as its exterior was
formidable and imposing. The rock itself is a pyramid rising abruptly to
a height of 700 feet above the village which nestles at its base, while
it is scarped all round to the broad moat by which it is encircled,
forming a sheer precipice of 100 or 150 feet in depth.

Passing through a massive gateway which led into the town, we entered the
fort by a similar approach, and crossing the moat by a narrow bridge we
plunged into a dark hole directly opposite; then passing by torchlight
through some small caves which were entered by very low portals, we began
to ascend the inclined plane which wound up the interior of the rock, and
which gradually became steeper till it ended in a flight of steps, our
guides lighting us on our uncertain path, until we emerged into daylight
by a large iron trap-door, pierced with innumerable small holes, the
object of which, as well as of a groove in the rock communicating with
the subterranean passage, was to enable the garrison, by filling the
passage with smoke and flame, to suffocate and blind the besiegers should
they ever succeed by any accident in penetrating thus far--in itself, as
it seemed to me, a very improbable contingency. We clambered up the face
of the rock to its summit, whence we had an extensive view of the arid
plains of the Deccan.

Arungabad is the first station which we had visited in the dominions of
the Nizam. We were now approaching the confines of civilization, and it
became necessary to part with our palkees and the bearers, who had
accompanied us from Agra. A separation from the latter was easily borne,
and they, on their part, were no doubt glad to get rid of the burdens
they had been carrying for the last month. But to bid adieu for ever to
one's palkee is a severe trial; and no wonder, for to a man not in a
hurry it is the most luxurious and independent means of travelling
conceivable.

If judiciously arranged it contains everything the traveller can want--a
library, a cel