le and blue in the
clear sunshine, to the delicate tone of the deep sky beyond; and I
could see the yet unwasted snows of winter glittering, in little
detached masses, along their summits. The hills of the middle
region were feathered with wood; a forest of mingled oaks and
larches, which still blended the tender softness of spring with the
full foliage of summer, swept down to the path; the wide undulating
plain below was laid out into fields, mottled with cottages, and
waving with the yet unshot corn; and a noble arm of the sea winded
along the lower edge for nearly twenty miles, losing itself to the
west among blue hills and jutting headlands, and opening in the
east to the main ocean, through a magnificent gateway of rock. But
the little groups which I encountered at every turning of the path,
as they journeyed, with all the sober, well-marked decency of a
Scottish Sabbath morning, towards the church of a neighbouring
parish, interested me more than even the scenery. The clan which
inhabited this part of the country had borne a well-marked
character in Scottish story. Buchanan had described it as one of
the most fearless and warlike in the north. It served under the
Bruce at Bannockburn. It was the first to rise in arms to protect
Queen Mary, on her visit to Inverness, from the intended violence
of Huntly. It fought the battles of Protestantism in Germany, under
Gustavus Adolphus. It covered the retreat of the English at
Fontenoy; and presented an unbroken front to the enemy, after all
the other troops had quitted the field. And it was the descendants
of those very men who were now passing me on the road. The rugged,
robust form, half bone, half muscle--the springy firmness of the
tread--the grave, manly countenance--all gave indication that the
original characteristics survived in their full strength; and it
was a strength that inspired confidence, not fear. There were
grey-haired, patriarchal-looking men among the groups, whose very
air seemed impressed by a sense of the duties of the day; nor was
there aught that did not agree with the object of the journey, in
the appearance of even the youngest and least thoughtful.

"As I proceeded, I came up with a few people who were travelling in
a contrary direction. A Secession meeting-house has latel