k be cut off to preserve it. The brisket changes first in
the breast; and if it is to be kept, it is best to rub it with a little
salt, should the weather be hot. Every kernel should be taken out of all
sorts of meat as soon as it is brought in, and then wiped dry. For
roasting, it should hang as long as it will keep, the hind quarter
especially, but not so long as to taint; for whatever may be authorised
by the prevailing fashion, putrid juices certainly ought not to be taken
into the stomach. Great care should be taken to preserve by paper the
fat of what is roasted. Mutton for boiling will not look of a good
colour, if it has hung long.--In purchasing this meat, choose it by the
fineness of the grain, the goodness of its colour, and see that the fat
be firm and white. It is not the better for being young: if it be wether
mutton, of a good breed and well fed, it is best for age. The flesh of
ewe mutton is paler, and the texture finer. Ram mutton is very strong
flavoured, the flesh is of a deep red, and the fat is spongy: wether
mutton is the best.

MUTTON BROTH. Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour, cut off the
scrag, and put it into a stewpot, with two quarts of water. As soon as
it boils, skim it well, and simmer it an hour and a half. Cut the best
end of the mutton into pieces, two bones in each, and take off some of
the fat. Prepare four or five carrots, as many turnips, and three
onions, all sliced, but not cut small. Put them soon enough to get quite
tender, and add four large spoonfuls of Scotch barley, first wetted
with cold water. Twenty minutes before serving, put in some chopped
parsley, add a little salt, and send up all together. This is a Scotch
dish, and esteemed very excellent in the winter.

MUTTON CHOPS. Cut them from the loin or neck, broil them on a clear
fire, and turn them often, or the fat dropping into the fire will smoke
them. When done, put them into a warm dish, rub them with butter, slice
a shalot in a spoonful of boiling water, with a little salt and ketchup,
and pour it over the chops. The ketchup may be omitted, and plain butter
used instead.

MUTTON CHOPS IN DISGUISE. Prepare a seasoning of chopped parsley and
thyme, grated bread, pepper and salt. Smear the chops over with egg,
strew the seasoning on them, and roll each in buttered paper. Close the
ends, put them in a Dutch oven or fryingpan, and let them broil slowly.
When done, send them to table in the paper, with gravy