iption may be preserved from putrefaction by being
partially dressed and then closely stopped down, as has been fully
demonstrated by Messrs. Donkin and Gamble of Bermondsey, who by means of
air-tight canisters are in the habit of preparing all kinds of meat,
which will keep perfectly sweet and fresh for a considerable length of
time in any climate, and are incomparably better than those preserved in
the ordinary way by salting or drying. But however applicable these
preserves may be to the purposes of a long voyage, or a foreign
expedition, where no fresh supplies can be obtained, they are by no
means to be recommended to private families, who enjoy the superior
advantages of going to market for fresh provisions. Time, which devours
all things, cannot fail to impair, though not immediately, the flavour
and other properties of whatever is preserved, in defiance of every
precaution against its influence. The appearance and flavour of such
articles may not be revolting to us, but if compared with the same
things when fresh and well dressed, their inferiority is sufficiently
obvious. Pickled salmon is a familiar instance of this kind. It is very
generally relished, and often preferred to fresh salmon; yet if brought
into comparison, the substance of the one is heavy, that of the other
light and elastic. The flavour of the pickled salmon is sophisticated
and deadened, if not vapid; that of the other is natural, fresh, and
delicate, the pure volatile spirit not being destroyed by improper
cookery, or long keeping. Instances of violent surfeits often occur from
eating pickled salmon, soused mackarel, and other rich preserves, not
from their being in a state of decay, but from the unwholesomeness of
their preparation. People acquire tastes indeed, that reconcile them to
any thing; that even make them fond of corrupted flavours, such as
decayed cheese, tainted meat, and other things of a similar description.
Our taste therefore is very likely to betray us into error; and to guard
against it, it is necessary to be able to distinguish between what is
really wholesome and what is otherwise, for this is rather a matter of
judgment than of taste.--A few brief remarks may very properly be added
on the important article of MILK, which forms, or ought to form, an
essential part of the food of every family, in one shape or another. As
far as regards the general properties of milk, it is in season at all
times; and by judicious management