l--one is puzzled
sometimes to know which is canal and which river--does not improve its
appearance, while the use to which some of its bridges are appropriated
does not increase its purity. Passing onwards we come upon the Schloss
Platz, which is itself half a garden, and find ourselves in the midst of
an assemblage of public wonders--the Museum, the Protestant Cathedral, a
handsome basin and fountain (the pride of the true Berliner), the
Exchange, and the Old Palace.

The Museum stands on the left-hand, gracefully shaded by young trees.
Traversing this miniature grove, which guards its entrance, and passing
by the lofty fountain scattering its spray upon the leaves, we come upon
an elegant vase of gigantic proportions, sculptured from a solid mass of
native granite. Ascending into the body of the building by a sombre
stone staircase, we reach the Gallery of Antiquities and the Museum of
Paintings. The latter, though no doubt very valuable, appeals
unsatisfactorily to me (not presuming to be a critic), and is of a
peculiarly rigid, ecclesiastical character, of the early school;
certainly one of its chief features is a crowd of martyred St.
Sebastians.

The portion of the Museum appropriated to painting, unlike the National
Gallery of London, and the Pinakothek at Munich, receives a lateral
light. Imagine a long gallery divided into small cabinets by partitions,
which advance only so far from the outer wall as to leave a commodious
passage along its entire extent; imagine also that each of these cabinets
has a lofty window, and that on its side walls (the partitions) are
suspended the paintings for exhibition,--and you will form something like
a notion of the general arrangement. An effective _ensemble_ is out of
the question; but, on the other hand, every painting is well lighted, and
a better opportunity is afforded for quiet observation and study.

We descend into the "Platz," and proceed towards the palace, a huge
rectangular building, striped with columns, dotted with windows, and
blackened as few continental edifices are.

The palace of the kings of Prussia--few as they have been--has surely its
thrilling historical records. Doubtless; and through them all the spirit
of the _one_ king, "Der Alter Fritz," shines, all but visible. Here did
he hold his councils, here sit in private study; this was his favourite
promenade, here did he take his rest. These details light up the
imagination; but when we have