nts necessitates the existence, to a certain extent,
of the various trades and handicrafts. But in Rome these exist in an
embryotic state, and are carried on after the most antiquated
modes,--much as in Britain five hundred years ago. The principal public
works,--for by this name must we dignify the little quiet concerns in
the Eternal City,--are situated in the neighbourhood of Trastevere, the
decidedly plebeian quarter of Rome, although it would not do to say so
to a Trasteverian. There are woollen manufactories and candle
manufactories. The chief customer of the latter is the Church. The
armoury and mint are contiguously situated to St Peter's. The tanning of
hides is extensively carried on along the banks of the Tiber, whose
classic "gold" is not unfrequently streaked with oozy streams of a dirty
white. Flour-mills are numerous. Amid the brawls which disturb the
Trastevere, the ear can catch the ring of the shuttle, for there a few
hand-loom weavers pursue their calling. There is a tobacco manufactory
in the same quarter; and I must state, for truth compels me, that most
of the Roman women take snuff. From the windows of the Vatican Museum
one can see the tile and brick maker busy at his trade behind the
palace. Extensive potteries exist near to Ripa Grande, where the most of
the kitchen and chamber utensils for city and country are made. I may
here note, that most of the cooking utensils of the working man are of
earthenware, and stand the fire remarkably well.

There are about a score of soap-works in Rome, but the soap manufactured
in these establishments is abominable. My friend Mr Stewart informed me
that he brought a soap-boiler from Glasgow, who understood his business
thoroughly, and had soap made in Rome as we have it in this country, but
without the palm-oil. This ingredient was not used, because, not being
in the tariff, it was thought that, should it be imported, it would in
all probability be classed under "perfumeries," and charged an
exorbitant duty. The soap being a new thing in Rome, and unlike the
nauseous stuff there in use, a clamour was raised against it, to the
effect that it produced sickness, and caused headache and vomiting. The
Roman ladies, in certain circumstances, are most fastidious about
smells, though why they should in Rome, of all places in Europe, is most
unaccountable. The Government, compassionating their sufferings, seized
a parcel of the soap, and caused it to be analyzed by a c