o, no," was his reply; "a fine line for the temporary bridge over the
river."

We both laughed heartily at the misunderstanding, and when he saw my
trophy, which was being carried by my man just behind me, he agreed
that it was quite fine enough to monopolise my thoughts and prevent me
from thinking of anything else.

CHAPTER XXI

THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES

A few Masai may still be seen on the Athi Plains, but as a rule they
keep away from the railway, the majority of the tribe being now settled
on the Laikipia Plateau. Formerly they were by far the most powerful
native race in East Africa, and when on the war-path were the terror of
the whole country from the furthest limits of Uganda to Mombasa itself.
Their numbers have latterly become greatly reduced through famine and
small-pox, but the remnant of the tribe, more especially the men, are
still a fine, lithe, clean-limbed people. While I was stationed in the
Plains I managed to have an interview with the chief, Lenana, at one of
his "royal residences," a kraal near Nairobi. He was affability itself,
presenting me with a spear and shield as a memento of the occasion; but
he had the reputation of being a most wily old potentate, and I found
this quite correct, as whenever he was asked an awkward question, he
would nudge his Prime Minister and command him to answer for him. I
managed to induce him and his wives and children to sit for their
photograph, and they made a very fine group indeed; but unfortunately
the negative turned out very badly. I also got Lenana's nephew and a
warrior to engage in combat with the spear and shield, and both made
fine play with their long keen blades, which more than once penetrated
the opponent's shield.

The Masai have a wonderfully well-organised military system. The
warriors (elmorani) of the tribe must attend strictly to their duties,
and are not allowed to marry or to smoke or to drink until after their
term of active service is completed. Besides the spear and shield they
generally carry a sword or knobkerrie, suspended from a raw-hide
waist-belt; and they certainly look very ferocious in their
weird-looking headdress when on the warpath. Once or twice I met
detachments out on these expeditions, but they were always quite
friendly to me, even though I was practically alone. Before the advent
of British rule, however, sudden raids were constantly being made by
them on the weaker tribes in the country; and when a kraal