y, and then various portions of the
sky were illumined in succession by their ever-changing bars, or columns
of coloured light. Man's mightiest pyrotechnic displays dwarfed into
insignificance in the presence of these celestial visions. For hours at
a time have I been entranced amidst their glories. So bewildering were
they at times to me that I have lost all ideas of location, and knew not
which was north or south.

But to the experienced guide, although, like many of the Indians, he had
a keen appreciation of the beauties of nature, so intent was he on his
duties that these changing auroras made no difference, and caused him no
bewilderment in his work. This, to me, was often a matter of surprise.
They are very susceptible in their natures, and their souls are full of
poetry, as many of their expressive and beautiful names indicate. To
them, in their pagan state, those scintillating bars of coloured light
were the spirits of their forefathers, rank after rank, rushing out to
battle. Yet, while on our long trips I have had Indians as guides who
became intensely interested in these wondrous visions of the night, I
never knew them to lose the trail or become confused as to the proper
route.

Very pleasant are my memories of different guides and dog-drivers. With
very few exceptions they served me loyally and well. Most of them were
devoted Christian men. With me they rejoiced to go on these long
journeys to their countrymen who were still groping in the darkness, but
most of them longing for the light. Many of them were capable of giving
exhortations or addresses; and if not able to do this, they could, Paul-
like, tell the story of their conversion, and how they had found the
Saviour.

My heart warms to those faithful men, my companions in many a storm, my
bed-fellows in many a cold wintry camp. Memory brings up many incidents
where they risked their lives for me, and where, when food was about
exhausted, and the possibilities of obtaining additional supplies for
days were very poor, they quietly and unostentatiously put themselves on
quarter rations, for days together, that their beloved missionary might
not starve.

Some of them have finished their course. Up the shining trail,
following the unerring Guide, they have gone beyond the auroras and
beyond the stars right to the throne of God.

CHAPTER SEVEN.

ON THE TRAIL WITH THE DOGS, TO FIELDS RIPE FOR THE REAPER--THE PLACE--
THE TRIP--THE WINTE