those well-known young ladies,
the Misses "Bakkur and Ternahed;" James seems determined to enjoy it for
an unusually prolonged period this evening; but, like everything else,
it must have an end, and at last good James lies snugly in his berth,
alongside the wharf at Charleston. Cabmen and touters offer an infinity
of services; passengers radiate--my Yankee Paddy, it is to be hoped,
went to an ice-saloon. Your humble servant went to a boarding-house kept
by a most worthy old lady, but where flies occupied one half the house,
and the filthiest negro-boys the other. Several respectable people, out
of regard to the old lady, were performing the penance of residing in
her house: a trip on hot ashes from Dan to Beersheba would have been
luxury by comparison. I resigned myself and got reconciled, as I saw the
sincere desire of the dear old girl to make me as comfortable as she
could; and by learning to eat my meals with my eyes shut, I got on
tolerably well. But scarce had I set foot in this establishment which I
have been describing, ere kind friends sprang up to greet me and offer
me the use of their club-room, which was just opposite my
boarding-house; and as this was only the prelude to endless other
civilities, my lodging saw very little of me; which may be easily
imagined, when it is recollected how famous Charleston is, not only for
the good living which it affords, but for the liberal hospitality with
which it is dispensed. A letter to one gentleman becomes, like magic, an
"Open Sesame" to all the cellars and society in the place; and the only
point in dispute is, who can show you most kindness.

The town is conveniently situated between the Ashley and Cooper rivers,
with a population of 25,000 whites and the same number of blacks; it is
a mixture of all that is lovely and annoying. The houses have mostly
little gardens attached to them, sparkling with tropical flowers, and
the streets are shaded with avenues of trees. This is all very lovely to
look upon; but when you go out to enjoy a stroll, if the air is still, a
beefsteak would frizzle on the crown of your hat; and if there is the
slightest breeze, the sandy dust, like an Egyptian _khamseen_, laughs at
all precautions, blinding your eyes, stuffing your nose, filling your
mouth, and bringing your hide to a state which I can find no other
comparison for but that of a box intended to represent a stone pedestal,
and which, when the paint has half dried, is sprinkled w