and when we
arrived they were as fresh as four-year-olds, and quite ready to return
if need had been. I saw nothing worth remarking during the drive. There
was plenty of cultivated land; and plenty of waste, waiting to reward
the labourer. All the little villages had their daguerreotype shops
except one, and there the deficiency was supplied by a perambulating
artist in a tented cart.
When a railway crosses the road, you are expected to see it,--the only
warning being a large painted board, inscribed "Look out for the Train."
If it be dark, I suppose you are expected to guess it; but it must be
remembered that this is the country of all countries where every person
is required to look after himself. The train coming up soon after my
arrival, I went on to Buffalo, amid a railway mixture of
tag-rag-and-bobtail, squalling infancy and expectorating manhood. On
arriving at the terminus, I engaged a cab, and, after waiting half an
hour, I found that Jarvey was trying to pick up some other "fare," not
thinking myself and my servant a sufficient cargo to pay well. I tried
to find a railway official; but I might almost as well have looked for a
flea in a flower-garden--no badges, no distinctive marks, the station
full of all the riff-raff of the town;--it was hopeless. At last, by a
lucky accident, I saw a man step into a small office, so I bolted after
him, like a terrier after a badger, but I could not draw him; he knew
nothing about the cabs--he was busy--nay, in short, he would not be
bothered. Having experienced this beautiful specimen of Buffalo railway
management, I returned to the open air and lit my cigar. After some
time, Cabby, having found that no other "fare" was to be had,
condescended to tell me he was ready; so in I got, and drove to the
hotel, on entering which I nearly broke my neck over a pyramid of boxes,
all looking of one family. They turned out to be the property of Mr.
G.V. Brooke, the actor, who had just arrived "to star it" at Buffalo.
Supper being ready, as it always is on the arrival of the evening train,
I repaired thither, and found the usual wondrous medley which the
American tables d'hote exhibit, the usual deafening clatter, the usual
profusion of eatables, the usual rapidity of action, and the usual
disagreeable odour which is consequent upon such a mass of humanity and
food combined. Being tolerably tired, I very soon retired to roost.
What a wondrous place is this Buffalo!--what a type of A
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