ies had
been in bed since midnight. The air was heavy with the fragrance of
the Bauhinias, and after I passed the great Australian Blue-gum
which overhangs the road, and the Wallaba-tree, {120a} with its thin
curved pods dangling from innumerable bootlaces six feet long,
almost too heavy with the fragrance of the 'white Ixora.' {120b} A
flush of rose was rising above the eastern mountains, and it was
just light enough to see overhead the great flowers of the 'Bois
chataigne,' {120c} among its horse-chestnut-like leaves; red flowers
as big as a child's two hands, with petals as long as its fingers.
Children of Mylitta the moon goddess, they cannot abide the day; and
will fall, brown and shrivelled, before the sun grows high, after
one night of beauty and life, and probably of enjoyment. Even more
swiftly fades an even more delicate child of the moon, the Ipomoea,
Bona-nox, whose snow-white patines, as broad as the hand, open at
nightfall on every hedge, and shrivel up with the first rays of
dawn.

On through the long silent street of Port of Spain, where the air
was heavy with everything but the fragrance of Ixoras, and the dogs
and vultures sat about the streets, and were all but driven over
every few yards, till I picked up a guide--will he let me say a
friend?--an Aberdeenshire Scot, who hurried out fresh from his bath,
his trusty cutlass on his hip, and in heavy shooting-boots and
gaiters; for no clothing, be it remembered, is too strong for the
bush; and those who enter it in the white calico garments in which
West-India planters figure on the stage, are like to leave in it,
not only their clothes, but their skin besides.

In five minutes more we were on board the gig, and rowing away south
over the muddy mirror; and in ten minutes more the sun was up, and
blazing so fiercely that we were glad to cool ourselves in fancy, by
talking over salmon-fishings in Scotland and New Brunswick, and
wadings in icy streams beneath the black pine-woods.

Behind us were the blue mountains, streaked with broad lights and
shades by the level sun. On our left the interminable low line of
bright green mangrove danced and quivered in the mirage, and loomed
up in front, miles away, till single trees seemed to hang in air far
out at sea. On our right, hot mists wandered over the water,
blotting out the horizon, till the coasting craft, with distorted
sails and masts, seemed afloat in smoke. On