l start from the dormant buds or "eyes," in order to make them
flower, a weak-growing rose must be pruned hard so as to concentrate all
the vigour of the plant on the few dormant buds we leave. While if we
prune a strong-growing rose very hard we only make it throw yet longer
shoots, which soon get out of all bounds, and run to wood and not to
blossom.

2. Always prune to a dormant bud which points outwards. This is done to
keep the centre of the plant comparatively free, by preventing the
shoots crossing and choking each other.

In pruning we have to keep two objects ever in view. In the first place
we must prune in order to get rid of all dead wood, and weak, unripe and
useless shoots, thus enabling the young healthy wood to take their
place. And secondly we must prune so as to keep the plant in good shape
and good health, by cutting back the strong and healthy wood we leave to
a suitable length.

If the winter has been mild, we shall find many buds on the upper part
of strong shoots of last year's growth, which are already bursting into
leaf and even showing a flower bud. And it seems so brutal to destroy
these, that I know one is often tempted to leave some to take their
chance, instead of hardening one's heart and sternly cutting down to
just above the first dormant bud. But when the plants really start in
May, we pay for our tender-hearted folly by blind unhealthy shoots which
only disfigure the plant, while the real flower shoots are starting
below and cannot get up to the light and air. Or, again, the unpruned
shoot turns black and begins to die back, and we have to cut it down
much further than would have been necessary had we pruned it at the
right moment.

In pruning, however, let the amateur remember that until he has gained
considerable experience in the matter, it is far safer to prune too
lightly than to prune in excess. And I must repeat that no rules will
really help us, unless we study the special nature and idiosyncrasy of
each individual plant, exactly as we study the character of the child we
have to deal with.

With climbing summer-flowering roses very little pruning at all is
required, except slightly shortening the ends of the long rambling
shoots, cutting out all the dead wood, and cutting some of the old
flowering shoots which are worn out, down to the base.

It must be remembered that Ramblers, Noisettes, and other climbing roses
bear their flowers on the laterals of the long shoots of