there observe a splendid saloon, perhaps
a hundred feet in length, richly carpeted and adorned throughout. You
will note the elegance of the furniture,--costly chairs, sofas, tables,
and lounges; you will note the walls, richly gilded and adorned with
appropriate designs; the crystal chandeliers suspended from the ceiling;
the hundred doors that lead to the "state-rooms" on each side, and the
immense folding-door of stained or ornamental glass, which shuts in the
sacred precinct of the "ladies' saloon." In short, you will note all
around you a style and luxuriance to which you, as a European traveller,
have not been accustomed. You have only read of such a scene in some
Oriental tale--in Mary Montagu, or the "Arabian Nights."

And yet all this magnificence is sometimes sadly at variance with the
style of the company that occupies it--for this splendid saloon is as
much the property of the coarse "rowdy" as of the refined gentleman.
You are startled by the apparition of a rough horse-skin boot elevated
along the edge of the shining mahogany; and a dash of brown nicotian
juice may have somewhat altered the pattern of the carpet! But these
things are exceptional--more exceptional now than in the times of which
I write.

Having satisfied myself with examining the interior structure of the
"Belle of the West," I sauntered out in front of the cabin. Here a
large open space, usually known as the "awning," forms an excellent
lounging-place for the male passengers. It is simply the continuation
of the "cabin-deck," projected forward and supported by pillars that
rest upon the main deck below. The roof, or "hurricane-deck," also
carried forward to the same point, and resting on slight wooden props,
screens this part from sun or rain, and a low guard-rail running around
it renders it safe. Being open in front and at both sides, it affords
the best view; and having the advantage of a cool breeze, brought about
by the motion of the boat, is usually a favourite resort. A number of
chairs are here placed to accommodate the passengers, and smoking is
permitted.

He must take very little interest in the movements of human life, who
cannot kill an hour by observing it upon the "Levee" of New Orleans; and
having seated myself and lighted my cigar, I proceeded to spend an hour
in that interesting occupation.

CHAPTER FOUR.

THE RIVAL BOATS.

The part of the "Levee" under my eyes was that known as the "Steamboat
Landing